Kayfun 3.1 Svoemesto
The Kayfun 3.1 Svoemesto is a sleek looking stainless steel rebuildable atomizer. You can get it in a brushed or polished look to suit your tastes.
I ordered mine from Canvape.com and it arrived in an attractive gift box with everything needed, even the small screw driver.
The fit and finish on the Kayfun 3.1 is exceptional. I know this is a clone, but they sure did a good job on the engineering and build of this device. You can barely tell there are any seams anywhere on it.
The picture at the right shows two units, one with a solid stainless steel tank, the other with a clear tank. There is only one unit in the box, but both the stainless steel and clear inserts are included. You get to choose which look you want for your system. I chose the clear insert, I like seeing how much juice is left.
Included in the package is:
- The bottom threaded connector base
- The coil portion with the electrical posts and air flow shaft
- Two tank inserts to choose from (stainless steel or clear)
- A coil "chimney" cover with a cover air vent to the mouth piece
- The top cover
- A 510 drip tip threaded cap (goes on the top cover, allows you to use any 510 drip tip)
- And the unique Kayfun style drip tip with threaded bottom
- Wick materials (no way to measure, but looks like 3 mm)
- Wire material (no way to measure, but suspect it is AWG 20
- Two extra seals
- Small screw driver
Building the coil
This is one of my first builds, so I took my time to get it right. As it comes in the box, the only component that is not on the atomizer is the drip tip. That's to make the packaging a bit smaller and more compact. Disassembly was simple, you essentially take apart the entire unit ... if this is your first time, take pictures so that you can recall how to re-assemble.
Building a coil is not difficult. The most common wire is AWG 20 guage. This is sort of "general purpose" and will build a coil that ranges from 1.2 to 2.4 ohms – the resistance depends more on how many loops you make with the wire. What I did is take a piece of the wick and measured out about four inches. While measuring, I also measured out about the same length of coil wire. Once you cut the wire, grab an end with a small pair of pliers and heat the coil with a lighter or torch – all you are trying to do is get it glowing (and an old cig lighter will work perfectly for this). Heating the wire has several purposes: 1) it removes any impurities and oils from manufacturing and "anneals" the metal and makes it less springy.
I then folded the wicking material in three and used a paper clip across the folded parts ... that's to keep the wick material straight and easy to handle when wrapping the coil wire, plus it is also to make sure the coil wire does not compress the wicking material and prevent it from wicking.
Put one end of the coil wire together with the wick/paper clip in one hand with a bit of the coil wire overhanging and hold firmly with one hand (between thumb/finger). Then start the loops around the wick. Keep in mind you do not want this too tight, you want to end up with loose loops. I did mine in a 5/4 configuration (I'll explain that shortly). Once you have the fifth loop done, let the rest of the wire extend so that it is pointing upwards. Now you can release the end you are holding with your other hand. Take the coil wire that is inline with the wick material and straighten it out so that it is pointing downwards (perpendicular) in the opposite direction of the other coil wire end. At t his point you should have four wire loops showing on the under side, and five wire loops showing on the upper side (meaning facing you, or up).
You should be able to use the included small screw flat driver to evenly space out the coil loops. The space from one edge of the coil to the other edge should be slightly narrower than the distance between the two screw posts on the atomizer. Once you finish with the flat screw driver and have the coil loops reasonably evenly spaced, switch the screw driver end to the Philips end (star shape).
Before this next step, unscrew the two electrical post screws slightly.
You can now put your freshly built coil across the posts of the atomizer portion. You want the screws and the coil to be in perpendicular directions – that is the screws left/right and the coil top/bottom in a cross fashion. Start by putting one of the leads of the coil around one of the screws and tighten that. My technique is slightly different that most ... I have done some electrical work in the past and find it more convenient for me to wrap a lose wire in the same direction (clockwise) that the screw will be tightened so that the process of tightening does not force the wire to slip out. That is contrary to most other instructions that want you to wrap counter-clockwise. Once you have the first screw tightened, straighten out the coil if it has moved slightly and then wrap the second lead onto the second screw ... at this stage, be careful to leave enough slack so that the coil is not touching the stainless steel parts below the coil and make sure there is space between the center air flow shaft. Now tighten the screw.
If you are comfortable that the screws are secure, switch back to the flat end of the screw driver. Insert the flat edge under the coil. Without too much pressure, just make sure that the coil is lifted off the center stainless steel portions and that there is space between the coil and the air flow shaft. Also use the flat end to make sure only the coil leads are in contact with the screws, screw posts or any other part of the atomizer.
Once you are done, you can measure the resistance of your work. You can do that with a multimeter, an ohm meter or on an advanced personal vaporizer with resistance checker. Mine worked out to be 1.3 ohms. Quite satisfactory!
You can now put that portion of the atomizer on your battery tube and dry fire to make sure you don't have any hot spots or shorts anywhere.
The next part is to cut the wick to fit inside the coil cover housing. I wanted lots of wicking material, so I cut mine so that when each end was jutting out about 1/8 inch past the threads where the coil cover housing screws in. That will leave you with six wicks, three on each side of the center connection point. Fold those up temporarily and manipulate the coil cover housing over them. Screw that in tightly.
Whatever juice you plan to use, take it out now and wet down the wicks. Use the flat screw driver to shift the wicks so that they are entirely within the coil cover housing. Keep in mind that the juice will be at the bottom of this unit, so you want the wicks to be closer to the bottom – as you move them, be careful not to push down on the coil (you don't want to have to take it apart again to get space between the coil and the center connection point). Once you are done that, put the coil housing cap on, again tighten by hand pressure only. Now, set that all aside.
Turn the top cover of the atomizer over so that you can see the underside. You should be looking at the bottom part of the drip tip / mouthpiece area. You want to make sure that the O ring is still in place. Often when you disassemble, the O ring stays on the coil cover housing cap. If that's the case, put it back in place on the bottom of the top cap. There is a recessed area there and it will hold in place with a slight push of the finger.
Now, let's start the assembly part. Start with the bottom 510 threaded base part. Screw on the portion that you just built (the coil component). Now, take notice of where the air hole is at the base of the coil cover housing. You'll need to know that in a few minutes. Next, screw on the tank, either the stainless steel one or the clear one, it's your choice – again hand tighten. You now have the fundamentals of the tank pretty much done and it's time to add your juice. The tank remains leak-free by a process of a blocked vaccum. With the top off, there is no blocked vaccuum, so we need to create one. Fortunately that is very simple. If you look at the bottom where the air flow holes are, you will notice that there are three holes. The one on the far left has a screw in it, this is for adjusting the air flow. The second one is for the air to flow through. The third is to use for filling your juice (I don't recommend this, and can't find anyone else that does either). It's the center hole you are concerned with ... put your finger over it to block any air from entering or exiting. Now fill the tank about 3/4 full.With your finger still blocking the air flow hole, take the top cover and put in in place – but only thread so that it catches. While you screw this on, you want to tilt the tank so the top portion faces downwards, and that location you noted earlier (where the hole is INSIDE the tank) is at the top. With the top of the tank pointing downwards, release your finger from the air flow hole and finishing screwing on the top cap. Wipe down the atomizer and put on the drip tip, you are done and ready to vape!
Overall, this took me about 15 minutes. I'm sure that at least 10 of those were spent double checking everything. The only tool that I used is a flush side cutter to cut the coil wire initially and to cut the wick material. You can use any side cutters for the wire, and nail clippers for the wick material. There really is no special skill in building a coil or any special tools required.
I recall the first time I did this, a measure of pride from vaping through a unit that I built. I also know the components are clean, and properly assembled.
Now, back to the review
I really want to thank Canvape.com for providing the Kayfun 3.1. I had heard good things about this from experienced modders and newbies alike. One in particular helped push me towards this unit: he had similar experience to me and was curious about rebuildables. His first unit was a Kayfun and he spoke highly of the increased taste and throat hit. In reality, the Kayfun lives up to those claims. At 1.3 ohms, this is one of the lowest resistance tanks I have tried. While I was setting up my Kayfun, I was using the new Eleaf iJust, vaping an Apple VG juice at 4.0 volts. I used the same juice in the Kayfun and attached it to an Anyvape vMecha (a mechanical device). The battery output was 3.8 volts (0.2 volts less than the iJust), but the taste of the juice was noticeably better. So was the throat hit and the vape cloud. I have since used the Kayfun 3.1 on an eVic, and a Cool Fire 1. Regardless of the power source, the vaping experience is greatly improved.
Canvape.com has the Kayfun 3.1 Svoemesto on their website for $34.95. For a tank with 3.5 ml capacity, infinite air flow control, two different styles of tanks, initial supplies to building at least two coils ... this is a great value!