Building Coils for the Squape
I've had a few comments and emails about the Squape and my techniques for building coils.
Here's a few quick pictures that may help. PS. I don't need comments on the photography. My regular camera wasn't available, I used my iPhone for these pictures.
At the right is the first picture. I had about 3/4 tank left, so I removed the drip tip, put the tank upside down, unscrewed the base and set the tank on a level surface. No need to empty out the tank.
I had previous built this (just yesterday) with a pre-wrapped coil and ended up with a 0.5 ohm resistance coil. It worked perfectly, but I wanted to use this on regulated devices too, so I decided to build a new coil and address the requests at the same time.
What I did here is start with 32 guage Kanthal and twisted it. My method for twisting is to take the two cut ends, join them together and grab that with a pair of vice grips. On the loop end, I insert a screw driver and then spin the vice grips. It takes about 30 seconds to twist the wire to make a perfect twisted wire for wrapping coils. As you can see from the picture at the right, this ended up being a 7/8 wrap. The legs are wrapped clockwise so that they remain taut when tightening the screws. You can also see the toothpick I use, it is smaller than a 5/64ths drill bit (ideal) and pointed. I can slide it in and out of the center of the coil as needed.
The toothpick is also perfect for laying across the channel of the Squape. It keeps the coil perfectly aligned with the channel and properly positioned in the center of the air flow tube.
I then removed the tooth and inserted a short length of organic cotton wick. The trick to this is to get enough cotton into the center of the wick so that it drags a bit but is not compressed. If it is compressed, it won't wick well. It's common, for me at least, to have one side a bit "thicker" than the other. I don't worry much about this.
The idea is to have the cotton loose so that it can do its job wicking. If it is compacted, it can't wick. You also don't want to use too much, it is quite effective at wicking. Using too much cotton will mean that you are getting too much eLiquid near the air flow. Do that and the atomizer will start to gurgle.
At the right is the cotton trimmed about 1/16th of an inch longer than the base of the coil. Ideally, you want the wick to wrap downwards slightly, but not to touch the bottom portion. You want it to just go past the flat portion of the wide channel so that eLiquid can't seep through that channel in a direct path to the air flow center area.
At the left is what I mean by just extending past the center channel. What I normally do is wet the cotton wick with eLiquid (in this case, some new juice we are just reviewing from Xtreme VG called Orange Cream Treat).
I then use the toothpick to tuck it into the channel so that the channel is filled completely – but I am also careful not to compact the cotton wick.
When I was done, I put it on a regulated advanced personal vaporizer and measured the resistance at 1.7 ohms ... just about perfect to use on any device, regulated or mechanical.
I really like this Squape from Ehpro. If you look closely at the pictures, you will also note that I didn't spend much time being particularly careful with trimming back the coil legs. And, they are touching the base. That base material is non-conductive, meaning no shorts. It's great particularly for someone just starting with rebuildables, this is VERY forgiving.
One other point to make. I usually build on a paper towel or anything with a white background. You can see why at the top picture. Even small pieces of wire that I've cut show with excellent contrast and are easy to find. It's also a good strategy when working with these small screws. If you have one of those tiny screws fall out because you unscrewed it too much, it is easy to find on the white background.