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Mirror modified

Anyone who has had a look at the Pioneer4You display will complain about how difficult it is to see. You pretty much have to be in low light to see it. Even a bright lightbulb makes it hard to read. In sunlight, it is impossible to see. I've seen a few modifications, all of them relying on using an abrasive to sand the back side of the plastic – but that also makes the plastic look like it has been sand blasted. You trade one type of problem for another (brightness with the mirror, clarity without).

I've found a process that removes the mirror and leaves it perfectly clear, just like glass – and it takes less than one minute.

As part of this fix, I also completed the wrap down the center channel – from the 510 connector all the way to the bottom of the plastic display. Have a look at the pictures.

I purposely underexposed this picture to show the brightness of the screen. Even with the lights off, the screen is visible and easily read. I tried it directly under a light bulb, and perfectly visible. I even used a photography light and had it on for about 30 seconds ... as bright as a sunny day, and the OLED is perfectly visible. Unfortunately, most cameras have difficulty focusing when the lighting is this extreme. The picture makes it look like the OLED display is too bright: not at all, it's perfect.

Here's how I did it: I found a process that can remove the mirror finish from the back of the plastic covering the OLED display and is also around the buttons. To remove that, there are two hex screws on one side, One of those screws is visible without removing the battery cover, the other is visible when you remove the battery cover – you have to take that off anyhow. Remove the two screws, gently lift the metal housing. The plastic OLED cover will slip out of place easily. It is only held in place by friction from four nibs on the side of the plastic that fit into dips in the metal housing.

Find whatever way works for you to remove the mirror finish on the back side of the plastic. I am not revealing how I did mine. If you do end up with light scratches, you can polish them out with a plastic polish (like the plastic polish they use for polishing plastic screens on motorcycles).

For this picture, I had the flash on so that you can see the contrast between the carbon fiber wrap on the battery cover, the pewter metallic wrap on the metal frame, and the silver metallic wrap down the center channel from the 510 connector all the way down to the bottom of the plastic covering over the OLED screen.

The plastic covering the OLED screen is 0.7 mm thick, by the way. I measured an opening at 1 1/8" by 3/8" for the OLED display. It's a bit on the big side, I'll redo it in the coming days and reduce that to 1" by 5/16" in the next one.

I like the look quite a bit. It is different than any other IPV4, yet is a nice look. That mark above the fire button, by the way, is just a speck of dust. The overall finish of the five part wrap is pretty good. The five wrap parts are:

1. The battery cover is done in a black carbon fiber wrap. I had to source a specialty vinyl so that it would stick to the plastic the battery cover is made of. This was a bit difficult to find, and expensive.

2 & 3. The metal frame is done in a pewter metallic wrap. I also sourced a specialty vinyl for this since I had to do some extreme stretching around quite a few bends. I also needed a vinyl that was not prone to shrinking since this part of the wrap is prone to heat from the device, the sun, and heat transfer from the atomizer. The frame is in two parts (that's why it is wrap #2 and wrap #3). 

4. The plastic covering the OLED display is the fourth wrap. It is a silver metallic wrap. This is pretty straight forward wrap, but because it is also used at the top of the unit, near the atomizer, I sourced the same brand of wrap as I used for #2 and #3. The plastic covering the OLED display was the template for the buttons and cutting the vinyl. The rectangular area for the actual display is made by measuring and curring a piece of masking tape first and then transfering that to the vinyl and then cutting the vinyl. Note that you need rounded corners on a cut out like this otherwise you will end up in cracks from stress in the corners.

5. The channel that the OLED display plastic cover sits in extens above the plastic all the way to the 510 connector. I wanted that top part to be the same look as the plastic cover, so I made a piece of vinyl wrap for that part too. I used the same brand of wrap as I used for #2 and #3 because I needed something that was shrink resistant since this sits near the atomizer and the charger circuit board.

Have fun doing yours. Wrapping your mod is a great way to personalize it to make your own statement.


  • Posted by Robert Jones on June 7, 2015, 6:52 am

    I used good quality tape to mask off the required area and used Brasso metal polish to remove the reflective coating. It came off suprisingly easily. Pity someone at P4U didn`t take the mod outside and look at the display in "outside" daylight.

  • Posted by Kevin Sebo on May 9, 2015, 8:55 am

    Why would keep removing the mirror finish a secret? Seems like it would be useful for everyone trying to remove the finish

    Reply> There is no secret to removing the mirror finish: use fine sandpaper (or razor blade) and buff out the sandpaper marks. You can also make a new cut out in 0.7mm clear plastic and use that as a replacement.